Discover the gastronomic range of Chile and its infinite culinary possibilities with this recipe from Boragó, the high-end Santiago restaurant that is included in this year’s The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. The book, which is beautifully produced and bound, is chef Rodolfo Guzmán’s love letter to the natural larder from which he forages to create dishes of ingenuity and brilliance. A chef in the mould of René Redzepi and Ferran Adrià he worked with his local university’s chemistry, biology and botany departments to tap into rare and under-used ingredients, connecting with ancient knowledge and cookery techniques of local, indigenous Mapuche Indian tribes to create memorable dishes.
(Let’s be frank: any recipe that begins with the instruction ‘Build an espino coal fire with red-hot embers’ is unlikely to be one that you’ll cook for a Monday family dinner and many of the ingredients below are native to Chile. You can still learn a trick or two from a culinary master: the lovage and alfalfa oil in the recipe below can be made easily at home (ignore the temperature instruction) and used to garnish a salad, roast vegetables or even simple boiled potatoes. The adventurous cook can pop whole potatoes wrapped in tin foil in the ashes of the fire before you go to bed and eat the potatoes the next day.)
For the witch potato:
5g Chilean espino coal
200g witch potatoes
For the Kolof Root and Pajaritos Cream (see the recipe for both at the bottom of this page)
200g Kolof Root Broth
200g Pajaritos Cream
For the alfalfa oil:
200g alfalfa, leaves removed
100g canola (rapeseed) oil
For the lovage oil:
100 g canola (rapeseed) oil
100g yellow oxalis flowers
2g jasmine essence
2g Caalhuil fleur de sel
16 violet flowers
To make the Witch Potato
1. Build an espino coal fire with red-hot embers and let it burn down until it has burned completely. Pile up the ashes, which should still have a very gentle heat, and insert the witch potatoes inside the ashes. Let them stay there until the following day.
Kolof Root and Pajaritos Cream
1. In a pan, reduce the kolof root broth by 50%. Then mix it with the pajaritos cream, stirring well. Store in the refrigerator.
1. Blend the alfalfa with the canola oil in a food processor at 150F (65C) for 15 minutes. Strain
it through a fine cloth and reserve the oil. l
1. Blend the lovage with the canola oil in a food processor at 150F (65C) for 15 minutes. Strain it through a fine cloth and reserve the oil.
1. Warm 4 plates. Remove the witch potatoes from the rescoldo and brush the skin off each potato
to remove the excess ash. Pour 10 g of the alfalfa oil on one side of each plate and 10g of the lovage oil on the other side. Spread 50 g of the kolof root and pajarito cream all over the plate; grate the horseradish on
another side and cover with yellow oxalis flowers. Using your hands, tear the potatoes in half; season them with the jasmine essence and the fleur de sel. Arrange them in a scattered fashion over the plate, keeping them at the same temperature as when they were removed from the rescoldo. Place 2 violet flowers on top of each witch potato.
How to make Kolof Root Broth
Makes 2.5kg of broth
3kg kolof roots
1. Bring 3kg of water to a boil in a large pot over medium heat, add the roots, and boil uncovered for 10 hours. After the broth has been reduced, cover that pot and leave the roots inside to steep overnight. The next day, repeat the process: Strain the broth and set it aside. Fill the pot with another 3kg water, add the roots, and cook over medium heat for 10 hours until you get a shiny, dark broth. You can use the same roots to repeat the process. You will get a second broth with different qualities from the first, but it will be very high quality.) Strain and store the broth separately. First and second batch broths can be used interchangeably.
Makes 1.2 kg
1kg organic heavy (double) cream
200g pajaritos yogurt
1. Mix the cream and the pajaritos yogurt in a yogurt maker. Process at 104F (40C) with 60% moisture, for 7 hours. Then remove and stir vigorously.
ANOTHER RECIPE FROM BORAGU
Wilted Spring Leaves with Murra Seasoning, Nalca, and Charcoal-Grilled Jibia
Internationally acclaimed star chef Rodolfo Guzmán of Boragó introduces the exciting world of high-end Chilean gastronomy. You can buy the book from the publisher Phaidon at their online bookshop.
Chef Rodolfo Guzmán serves a dynamic, wildly imaginative tasting menu at his acclaimed Santiago restaurant Boragó, using only native Chilean ingredients – often reinventing his courses mid-service. The book combines his fascinating narratives about Chilean geography and ingredients, his never-before-published notebook sketches of dishes and creative processes, and gorgeous landscape and food photographs that introduce readers to the distinctive pleasures of Chilean culture and cuisine. This is rounded off by Guzmán’s selection of 100 savoury and sweet recipes exclusively chosen from the menu at Boragó.
Read more about Boragó and the other 49 restaurants listed in this year’s The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. It was also included in The 50 Best Restaurants for the 2017 in Latin America.