From patisserie chef Will Goldfarb’s book ‘Room for Dessert’ published by Phaidon. If you are not an ambitious dessert-maker, why not just make one or two of the elements from the dessert below and buy ready-made ice cream. Sandwiching a good shop-bought vanilla gelato between two of Will’s sablé bretons, topping it with pan-fried Epoisses and sprinkling it with sea salt will make your world a better place. (Or if you love making ice cream try the vanilla gelato recipe below and you’ll have made a world-class version.) Will was named as one of the 10 Best Pastry Chefs in America by Pastry Art and Design. He also received the Starchef ‘Rising Star’ award and earned a James Beard nomination for Best Pastry Chef in America.
‘The only excuse for making a useless thing is that one admires it intensely’. Sebastian Melmoth
‘Ice cream sandwiches, indeed’, says Will Goldfarb in his book ‘Room for Dessert’. ‘There is no mistaking the fact that my most guilty pleasure comes from random acts of association and circuitous segue collaborations. Probably closer to the pinball theory of problem solving where stuff just bouncing off my head across space and time and gets magically regurgitated in the form of deliciousness, or in this case, love. The search for the magic Jedi, or how to ride a shortbread’s back like Yoda on Luke. The undisputed undefeated king of cheeses, with the pound for pound goat, vanilla gelato and a little bit of a dough drifter, salt from the edge, burned around the edges, edging out a more conservative condiment in favour of glorious reductive harmony.’
Makes 12 (50g) servings
2 vanilla beans (pod), seeds scraped
24g gelato base (see recipe just below)
44g egg yolks
For the gelato base above (makes 100g but you will only need 24g of that for this recipe)
80g milk powder
12g granulated sugar
7.5g all-purpose stabiliser
Instructions to make the gelato base:
Blend the ingredients together and pass through a fine mesh sieve. Reserve in an airtight container in a cool, dry place.
To make the Vanilla Gelato:
Boil the milk, cream, sugar, and vanilla. Infuse for at least 1 hour. Whisk in the gelato base, and return to a boil. Temper the yolk, then pasteurise to 84C/83F. Blend, strain, and chill. Rest overnight in the refrigerator and process according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
For the Sablé Breton
Makes about 16 biscuits
72g egg yolks
144g unsalted butter, diced, lightly chilled
13g baking powder
100–200g Epoisses de Berthaut (just buy a little wheel), or other gems cave-aged with Marc de Bourgogne
To prepare the Epoisses
Lightly pan-fry small pieces of the cheese.
To assemble the dessert
Take some Sablé Bretons and top with some pan-fried Epoisses, vanilla gelato, and smoked salt.
WHERE TO BUY ROOM FOR DESSERT BY WILL GOLDFARB
You’ll find Room for Dessert for sale at the Phaidon Book Store and at Amazon and other good book shops.
Patisserie chefs are precise. They measure everything. If the recipe says you need 72g of egg yolks, then weigh the egg yolks, because eggs are different weights (chickens don’t lay eggs to order). If you aren’t exact the recipe may not work as planned.
FIND WILL GOLDFARB ON TWITTER @willgoldfarb