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Irish Country House Cooking

Georgina Campbell has gathered together the recipes of country houses that appear in Ireland's Blue Book.

Anyone who has visited a country house, on foot of a listing in Ireland's Blue Book, will recall a soujorn of warmth, hospitality, a unique experience of staying in a place where the people there actually want you to visit. That's not something that can be said of most of the four star hotels in Ireland and if you haven't experienced it, then we urge you to try it. If you want a change from a Radisson or chain hotel experience, where you'll find excellent food, a warm welcome and a strong sense of place, then root out a Blue Book.

First you should buy a copy of Georgina Campbells' Irish Country House Cooking which, quite literally, gives a taste of what's to come. Over 30 cooks and chefs from each house have given her their recipes, from Aherne's Seafood Bar in Youghal to Cromleach Lodge in County Sligo, Lisdonagh House in Headford in Galway, Marlfield House in Gorey, Wexford, the famous Park Hotel in Kenmare, Rosleague Manor in Letterfrack – the country is dotted with good food, lovingly prepared in kitchens in grand houses that are also available to stay in.

The recipes are quite sophisticated, more dinner party or Sunday lunch than a quick tea. Connemara Lamb Marinated in Port Honey with a Tomato and Mint Chutney sounds quite elaborate but is actually straightforward - it comes from Currarevagh House in Oughterard, County Galway – an early Victorian Manor set in 150 acres of woodlands and gardens. Castle Leslie is where the McCartney wedding took place – the recipe they chose to include is Fillet of Irish Angus Beef with Fondant Potatoes, Salsa Verde and Red Wine and Rosemary Jus, just the thing to cook for Sunday lunch at home. (Better still, why not go there and try it!).

We found old favourites from the Blue Book among the list. We can still smell the peat from the fire in Moyglare Manor, an imposing Georgian Manor less than an hour from Dublin, its drawing room stuffed with antiques and bric-a-brac, a dog ambling through while we read the papers on a lazy Sunday afternoon. Their recipe for Poached Duo of Fresh Cod and Salmon with a Fresh Prawn, White Wine and Herb Cream appears in the book. When we ate it there, it was wonderful, if a little old-fashioned, a nod to the french style of cooking that we considered very posh when we first visited over a decade ago. Tinakilly House is another we know well. We once arrived late for dinner and asked if they could feed us. The friend we were with was trying to be pleasant. 'We don't mind if you just want to stick something in the microwave', she said. 'We don't own a microwave,' the reply came. We got our dinner, good food served with courtesy even though it was after 9pm.

Nostalgia is a wonderful thing, but to be nostalgic you have to experience something first. Cook a recipe from this book, visit a Blue Book country house, experience the magic that is to be found in the kitchens of our large houses and let's help to keep the home fires burning.

Available from good bookshops and from www.ireland-guide.com where the post and packing is free!

Highly recommended


RELATED LINKS
The Irish Pub Cookbook
The Irish Farmers' Market Cookbook
Full on Irish




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